Yesterday our friend Judith Roberts drove us out into the San Miguel countryside to the village of Cruz del Palmar. We visited the newly resorted 18th century Capilla San Isdidro, which is one of six chapels on the Ruta de Capillas de Indios. On the church ceiling, there’s an “orchestra of angels” mural. I only half-understood the guide…the history involves Otomí and Chichimeca tribes, a lightning strike, something about witches hopping from mesquite tree to mesquite tree, a river, and a guy who stole silver.There’s a little restaurant set up at the chapel, where they served “painted tortillas” with lunch. Judy explained that the charming tortillas are a specialty of this village, made for fiestas with vegetable dyes and woodblock presses.